Budgets and Beachtime

As the topic of how financially you can swing a trip like this is often brought up by inquiring souls, usually with the expression "you must be rich." Well, for those in the know, that obviously is not the case, and depending on whether or not I have the care-all, I usually explain that independent backpack touring can be done in many parts of the world for somewhere around $25 a day--everything included. For explanatory purposes I will give you an example of my average spending while in Egypt.

$4 a night--Usually a basic room with fan and a shared bathroom

$1--breakfast of coffee and rolls

$2--lunch of sharwma or falafel

$1.75--Snorkel gear rental

$3--taxi fares

$1--Sheesha (popular flavored tabacco waterpipe)

$2--baksheesh (tips)

$5--seafood pizza for dinner

$3--a couple beers

$2--internet time so I can check in with you

And whatever is left over in the budget is used to try and pay people to talk to me. So, as you can see it is quite easy to stretch the old greenback quite a few ways. If by chance I felt like I have gone over a daily budget by a large amount, I usually try skip expenses I have deemed not vital the following day. Like shelter. Always having an eye for a good nook and cranny, I was able to sleep at a hotel the other night. Although it actually was on the roof of it and the staff wasnt aware I was there. In the morning, while waking, I was thinking of how it would be interesting if I could get away with this hotel camping for a month or so, when I noticed one of the staff curiously examining my sleeping bag & throw pillow setup. I scurried off without having to give my planned excuse of "the girlfriend kicked me out of the room."

My arrival at the small town of Nuweiba has been pleasant on the old budget--which is sure not to last as Egypt is the cheapest country of the middle-eastern tour. Through the advice of a resident Couchsurfer I acquired a reed hut on the beach for a whopping $2.75 a night. My "living room' is about 5 ft. from the water. Although, I do have to share this grand paradise with the 10 other people that are staying along the 2 mile beach front.

Finally, after 4 days I got myself to leave with the promise that someday I will return to this place. Inshallah.

Bought a ticket for the ferry this afternoon to Jordan. In Petra by tomorrow.

Peace out,

Crusoe

Shouting from the Moutain Top

Known locally as Gebel Musa, but more widely known to Muslims, Jews, and Christians, for whom it holds an equally important significance, as Mt. Sinai. The location that the Bible states is where Moses produced the 10 commandments to his band of exiling Jews. At the base of the mountian also holds the 1,500 year-old St. Katherines Monastary.

The sunrise on the mountain top draws religious pilgrims from all around the world and their daily mass convergance to the summit in the early morning hours is reputed to be one amazing and bizzare sight to see. As you were too busy again, I took one for the team and showed up to bear witness to just what in the world people are doing on this mountaintop.

From below, the flashlit trail of ascending people zig-zaging to the top of the mountain looked like something out of a movie. It is a technically easy ascent with the greatest hazard being getting trampled by one of the many camels that are conveying the physically unable or lazy up. There was also a staggering amount of elderly climbers, I suppose feeling spiritually invigorated enough to make the hike, although I believe I saw a few Bedouin guides slipping amphetamines into their coffee to keep them on the move.

With me were an middle-aged couple from San Fransisco, a German girl, who was my busmate and snorkelling buddy in Dahab, and a young Bedouin guide who was more of a nuisance than a help. We were amazed at the amount of people traversing up the mountain (1,000+) as well as the flurry of different langauges being spoken around us (30+). Expectations of the experience were varied. As for me, I was anticipating two scenarios: either I would be struck down by lightening before reaching the summit by The Man or I would return from the top white-bearded and bearing the 11th Commandment of Keep Holy the Monday After a Crazy Weekend.

After about 2 hours of hiking up, we reached the summit about 15 minutes before sunrise. I found a rock ledge to sit and wait out whatever was to transpire. Not long later the sun began to poke over the desolate mountain range. A group began singing my favorite church hymn "How Great Thou Art" in a language I did not know, a group of ever-enthused Japanese pilgrims began clapping, and another Asian man stood howling at the sun from a rock ledge. Both absurd and spectacular, it truely was one of the more unique social gatherings I have ever seen.

Before leaving the rock ledge to descend the mountain, I planted the copy paper flag bearing the initials of Schloegel Design and Remodel into the ground, thus ensuring continued prosperous growth for the company, whose sponsorship of the Mt Sinai experience is greatly appreciated. Although I suspect the "flag" was probably swiped by a Beduoin not long later and made for toilet paper, its placement is sure to inspire a few hits on their website from pilgrims who were wondering just what in the hell I was doing.



This is probably one of a few Biblically inspired treks that I'll do while in this region of the world--all good chances for The Man to give me a piece of his mind.

Taking off today up the Red Sea coast to the town of Nuweiba for a couple day hang before departing via ferry to Jordan. If all goes well I will be in Petra before the weeks end.

Shalom,

Brother Brian

FYI-pic album updated

Red Sea Snorkelling

After days of temple & tomb exploring and tout avoiding, I decided an exodus to the Red Sea coast was probably a good idea. With friends made on the arduous 18 hour bus ride here, I have been relaxing and partaking in some water sports for the last 2 days. Although the Red Sea is world renowned for its scuba diving, I have primarily been spending my time conditioning myself to be a championship caliber snorkeller. For a $1.75 daily rental fee, I put on my snorkel equipment and set out in a quest to bring the sport of snorkelling from the shallows of the kid's area of the city pool to the forefront of extreme aquatic activities. Part of this quest involves diving down deep near the reef and trying to shame the scuba divers paying 50 Euros by seeing the exact same things as them. Fools. They may be able to go deeper but just wait and see when I employ the rope & cement bucket technique...

Snorkelling the "Blue Hole" today and then getting right with Yaweh tonight by ascending Mt. Sinai. After a quick mental replay, I may have to spend a few nights up there to achieve this goal, but that's between me and Him.

Yours,

Cousteau

Luxor and a Tout Rant

After a 10 hour train ride into the Nile Valley I found myself in the historically rich city of Luxor. Often referred to as one of the world's greatest open air musuems, Luxor possesses the tombs, temples, and knowledgeable guides to back up this claim. The ruins draw the archeologically addicted as well as adventurous families, making it a hub for international tourism for the last 200 years. Where there are tourists, inevitably, there are "touts." You know, the overly friendly locals employing age-old gimmicks to try and get you to see and buy their wares. They're everywhere and they're unavoidable--hell, they were even in the Amazon! Anyways, here in Luxor they have their schtick down to a science. It typically starts (about every 2 minutes) with the soon-to-be antagonizer politely welcoming you to Egypt and following up with a "where are you from." And it continues on to "come to my shop for a welcoming drink," "my family's store is having a sale today," "special price for you my friend." My friend this, my friend that. I have not been this popular since I started giving my friends tours of the girl's bathroom in 3rd grade. The tout's whole routine played out over 100 times a day is mentally grating and exhausting. One must find ways to deal with this before things boil over and you end up slugging one of these guys, who are just trying to make a living--albeit a very annoying one.

For me, its the lying game. For many years I operated under the false knowledge that honesty is the best policy. Not until later in life did I realize that whoever made up the phrase was a moron. Either that or she forgot to leave the ending in most cases. Yes, you noticed I used she, I was just speculating. Anyways, these frequent and routinized encounters provide opportunity for otherwise Honest Brian to try out his lying chops. New name, new birthplace, new story, whatever. After one particularly brutal stroll down a tourist market, I was running low on an alreadly underequipped patience ability, when I tried to abrubtly halt the barrage by telling the obvious lie that I was Brian from Japan. While I was smiling at my clever cynicism, the young tout started speaking to me in Japanese. Touche. A wise friend once told me that when encountering the solicitous type on the street that the best defense is a good offense--"Can I have a dollar?; do You want to buy this backpack?" Not purposely, I have also found that I am hassled less when I put my shades on. Nothing screams "this boy doesn't spend money on himself" like my BluBlocker shades.

Today I toured the Valley of the Kings, which is the location of the burial chambers of many of Egypts famous Pharaohs--the Ramses, King Tut, etc. Surrounded by an enclosing barren and arid mountainside, it is not hard to picture life as it was thousands of years ago. Protected by the absence of humidity, the heiroglyphic lined chambers provide all the evidence you need for realizing your small place in the history of the world.

Also visited the Tomb of Hapshetsut, which is considered one of Egypt's "must-see" monuments. I did not think it was all that great although I was more intrigued by its recent notoriety-- almost 11 years ago, 6 fundalmentalist hoping to cripple Egypt's tourism market (they briefly did), methodically shot and butcherknifed 60 unsuspecting tourists. Google the news--its scary. And don't worry, there are alot more sleeping police on site.

More ruins tomorrow and then a move,

Tom from Sudan

Brianandria

When Alexander the Great founded the Mediterranean port city of Alexandria, he had a vision of creating a culturally diverse and powerful center of trade between Europe and the Near East. Alexandria is also the former location of one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World--The Lighthouse of Alexandria. I did not see evidence of either of these assertations. However, my daytrip from Cairo served as a nice health retreat from the atmospheric ills of Cairo. A pleasant walk along the port's coast inspired thoughts on what the future of Brianandria might be described as. Forget the whens and wheres, lets focus on the important stuff:

One ruler. Everyone is sick of all this election drama 24/7 right? Never again. Brianandria would have a self-appointed dictator who serves a lifetime appointment. I will volunteer for that job.

The National Anthem is written and sung by Journey.

All official business transactions and deals must be sealed with a hi-five.

Drinking lunches are no longer stigmatized--in fact they are national policy.

OK, well I already ran out of stuff.....this should be more of a collaborative project. Constitutions take time you know. I am encouraging comments for what _____Andria will contain for you?

In other news, Planetary Vagabond has come across an opportunity to go semi-legit. My couchsurfing host Adham Bakry introduced me a to local editor for a new English language magazine that is being produced here in Cairo. She has seen the blog and would like me to write a monthly column on some of my adventure travel episodes (little does she know I have been writing these fabrications in my parents basement in Kansas City) The magazine is called Pleasure (no, it is not a porno mag. Although don't think that I am above doing work for one) with its first edition in December. Maybe an excuse for you to come and visit Egypt--to read the magazine.

Working for the weekend,
BrianQ

So much has been written on the Pyramids of Giza that I don't even want to put my hat into the ring. However, I will say that I enjoyed the overall experience, despite having feelings prior that it would be a major let down. This will just have to be a photo blog today.

Write your own story,

Q

You Better Walk Like an Egyptian

Because failure to do so will surely lead to your likely demise on the anarchic streets of Cairo. Having previously read up on the hazards of crossing streets in Cairo, I was still shocked to see the choatic and reckless nature of drivers here. Fully aware of the daily fatality count of pedestrians in his home city, Backry did me the service of teaching me the art of street crossing. A street typically consists of space that normally would allow for 2 lanes of traffic in a law abiding country, although Cairenes somehow are able to squeeze 4 "lanes" and countless swerving techniques into this space. The apparent disregard for human life by the drivers compounds the danger in venturing out. A total street cross without stopping is usually unlikely, therefore one must mentally visualize the traffic pattern and alternate walking an stopping at the appropriate parts in the road, with cars wizzing by at hairslength. There is something almost scientific about the undertaking as one must continously calculate the ebb and flow of the the river of cars rushing past. After several occasions of me shadowing Bakry's movements in order to cross the street, I finally received a baptize by fire when I was heading solo to the Egyptian Musuem. Facing a street with about 5 lanes of moving traffic I stood curbside for several minutes and stared, wondering just how in the hell crossing the street is physically possible.  A real life game of Frogger, where the stakes are more than a quarter.  I noticed one of the ever present Cairo policemen who was not far from where I was standing. I gave him a look that said "can you help with this" and he gave me the finger point and shoo motion that said "go on and give it a try sonny, you might make it." Much to his disappointment I made it and was able to enjoy the ancient exhibits in the Egyptian Musuem.
With more practice, the art of street crossing has turned into a fun bit to get the juices flowing. With the hope that it doesnt result in juices flowing outside your body.

Spent most of the day strolling around the backalleys of Cairo to get the local vibe and to inhale all the toxic wonder that Cairo's airspace holds. Smog and pollution abounds but not enough to kill interest in this historic city.

Heading to see history's most famous evidence tomorrow.

If not now, when?

Brian

A Day in the Life of a Couchsurfer

So I thought I would revisit a topic previously discussed several months back when Petro and I couchsurfed with a Chilean family back in February. A social networking website for travelers exists called Couchsurfing.com, where travelers can connect with "hosts" in cities around the world for just a chat and even possibly crash on their couch for a few nights. Crazy, right? Well, people are doing this with increasing frequency around the world and I feel that somebody has to shed some more light on this phenomenon for you. Here's my recent experience so far:

Wake up at the Berner's place in Dubai and get ready to head to the airport. Check email and see that a Couchsurfing host has replied back saying she has a friend who is new to CS and able to host. Send email to him inquiring about possibility.

Head to Airport.

On layover in Qatar, I check my email and see that the Couchsurfing host, Adham Bakry, replies that he does have a couch to crash and gives me directions to tell the taxi once I arrive in Cairo.

Arrive in Cairo negotiate a taxi to his place and hope like hell that this whole thing works out as if not, I will find myself SOL and away from the city center and all the hostels would be used as Plan B.

I get dropped off by the taxi and wander around the neighborhood a bit before finding the apartment building. Find the apartment, where there is no answer at the door and resolve to wait for awhile in the assumption that he is still at work.

Bakry's mother walks out of the adjoining apartment and intoduces herself and says that Backry will be home shortly and to make myself at home in his apartment.

He arrives not long later and after a bit of Q & A we head next door to eat a meal at his mother's place. Much like my mother would be if I had strangers showing up to crash at my place, she thinks we are both crazy but is also fascinated by the concept.

Backry is Egyptian, but through various experiences of living abroad including the States, his English is flawless--almost to the point that I forget that he is Egyptian. A photographer and graphic designer by trade, his spacious and eclectic apartment reflects his life in the arts. What is most exciting about the place is the U-Shaped couch, which is to be my sleeping quarters for the next few days. Upon seeing this grand facilitator of good conversations and sleep, I vow a U-shaped couch will grace my first permanant abode.

Bakry turns out to be super cool, relaxed, and a hospitable host. He is new to CS but already embodies the attitude that'll make him popular within the small Cairo network.

We head out to downtown Cairo on a walking tour of some of the city's drinking haunts. We later meet up with several of his friends, which allows me to be a participant/observer in a hip Egyptian hang. They primarily speak in English for my benefit although I find their Arabic exchanges to be more intriguing as it makes me cognizant of my presence in an authentic experience in North Africa.

In conversation, one of the Egpytian women spoke candidly about her mother's recent de-veiling (she no longer wears the Islamic veil). This strikes me as probably comparative in American culture to when someone's mother creates a Facebook profile.

Finally, my long day ends and I crash on the couch wondering what Cairo is going to throw at me tomorrow.

These sort of experiences are happening all over the world.

Maybe you should host?

BQ